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Welcome to Badgett's Coffee eJournal
"All the Coffee That's Fit to Print"™
Issue No. 51 November 16, 2001
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In This Issue:

1. Welcome
2. Some Words from Our Sponsors
3. Espresso! My Espresso! An Internet Novelette
4. A Daily Dose of Wisdom from the Rebbe
5. Coffee Roasters: How to increase your bean sales and your
revenues
6. Cappuccino Cooler
7. Torani Announces New Caramel Sauce
8. Wiener Halva
9. A National Call To Join In Prayer And Action For Our Future
10. The Quest for Espresso
11. Links to My Friends
12. Feedback


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1. Welcome

You can tell I have been on a diet because much of this issue is
about food. Why is that when you’re on a diet, almost everyone
you see has something to eat or drink in his hands or on her
desk? I’ve been trying to lose weight so I can pig out on my
upcoming vacation. Money and calories don’t have the same value
when you’re on vacation, right?

The other half of this issue is about espresso. Most of us love
it but it is so hard to find good espresso outside our homes. My
Saeco Classico and Rocky grinder are a great team and I have
been getting better and better at making a great shot. I’ve had
better espresso outside my home, but not very often.

If you haven’t taken the plunge and bought a good
grinder/espresso machine yet, what are you waiting for? Please,
please, please, do not expect good espresso without a good
grinder, no matter what you pay for the espresso machine.

My favorite espresso coffee of the moment is Yemen Mocha
Mattari. I bought Jim’s last few pounds (1st-line Equipment) and
I hate to see my supply getting low. It is really good. I’ve
been roasting it to a point just shy of oily. I’ll try some
Malabar Gold next. I hope I can get close to the excellent
espresso I had from Dr. Joseph John at the NASCORE show
recently. (I’m such a name dropper.)


My goal with this journal is to promote good coffee. I want to
learn, educate, and entertain. I publish every other Friday via
email and readers include coffee consumers, home roasters,
coffee geeks, retailers, growers, roasters, equipment dealers,
and anyone else who shares our passion for our most wonderful
beverage. If you want to learn more about the fascinating world
of coffee, this is the place. I don't sell anything and
subscription is free.


If you want to advertise here or submit an article please
contact me for the ad rates and deadline schedule.
mailto:robert@badgett.net


DISCLAIMER: All information contained here is obtained by
Badgett's Coffee eJournal from sources believed to be accurate
and reliable. Because of the possibility of human and mechanical
error as well as other factors, neither Badgett's Coffee
eJournal nor its publisher, Robert L. Badgett, is responsible
for any errors or omissions. All information is provided "as is"
without warranty of any kind.


To subscribe or unsubscribe, click here: http://www.badgett.net
If you have problems with subscribing or unsubscribing, please
contact me directly. mailto:robert@badgett.net


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2. Some Words From Our Sponsors

1st-line Equipment Online Auctions

Auctions! Starting At $1 (expire 11/23/2001)
***Demo La Pavoni EPC-8
http://www.1st-line.net/cgi-
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***8 lb Green Coffee Bean Sampler Pack
http://www.1st-line.net/cgi-
bin/category.cgi?category=&item=GreenBeanPack~&type=auction

Visit our newly expanded website, with online ordering and
reviews, at http://www.1st-line.com


VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV


Custom Imprinted Coffee Mugs
Fast Delivery - Competitive Pricing
For Details Call Doxpress: 800-999-3676
http://www.formsonline.com/coffee.htm


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A fig for partridges and quails,
Ye dainties I know nothing of ye;
But on the highest mount in Wales
Would choose in peace to drink my coffee.
Jonathon Swift
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3. Espresso! My Espresso! An Internet Novelette

We all have a coffee beginning- memories from childhood of the
smell of coffee from a pot on the stove and watching the brown
liquid do its magical dance in that little crystal ball on top
of the aluminum pot, and being told, "No. It will stunt your
growth." At least that's the way it started for me. After my
first "real" coffee drink as an adult I knew that "espresso" at
home was possible. At some point we all have had a sip of
"tincture of coffee" and thought, "I can do better than that!"

That began the search that led me to where I am today. That
process, from dream to reality- starting at Folgers and bringing
me to home roasting, blending and making espresso at home is the
journey I have documented in "novelette" form on my website. In
chapter 2, which was written before I had begun shopping for an
espresso machine, I state, "Like you, even with my limited
knowledge of the beverage, I have experienced coffee that tasted
as if it had been pumped from the ground in a Texas oil field.
On the other hand I have also had some cups of the brew that
tasted like Heaven and flowed over the tongue like silk. It is
the later brew that we strive to create for ourselves that sends
us off on the quest." And the quest for that brew is what began
"Espresso! My Espresso! An Internet Novelette."
http://www.quiknet.com/~frcn/Coffee/Coffee.html

The website is divided into three major parts. In the first
column I document the motivation for the quest, the shopping,
and early learning experiences. The second column contains the
chapters covering the time from when the equipment arrived until
today, and continues to grow. It has been just over one year
(almost to the day when I was invited by Robert to write this
little introduction) since Silvia and Rocky and Hearthware
Precision Roaster arrived at my door. Part of my motivation when
I created the coffee portion of my website was to document how I
arrived at my decision to invite that trio into my home, but not
for the purpose of talking others into the same decision but to
show what steps I took so that others could form their own path.
How far have I come? Drinking our morning cappas, my wife no
longer feels a need to add sugar!

I am a retired teacher, so by nature I have taken it upon myself
to include a number of lessons about espresso and related
topics. Actually, much of the text of the website itself is
written to be entertaining as well as educational.

I live a retired life with my retired wife in the foothills of
California's Gold Country, on ten acres, with our German
Shepherd (she's not retired, working as a full time watch dog to
earn her kibble). As a hobby, Since 1992, I have been the
owner/Editor/Publisher of the Feather River Canyon News
(http://www.quiknet.com/~frcn) our community's monthly newspaper
since 1986.

I also have a website dedicated to Digital Imaging with many
lessons and reviews of hardware and software as well
(http://www.quiknet.com/~frcn/Camera.html) and a page called the
"FRCN University" with computer and Internet lessons mainly
aimed at new and novice users
(http://www.quiknet.com/~frcn/FramLern.html) all presented free
from advertisements or banners.


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“A mathematician is a device for turning coffee into theorems.”
Paul Erdos
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4. A Daily Dose of Wisdom from the Rebbe
-Words and condensation by Tzvi Freeman

What is Evil?
-------------

Evil is that which has no power of its own. Evil is darkness, a
negation of light. Its power is in us, in our fear of it, in
that we consider it a "something" worth responding to.

Evil is fostered on every spoonful of worries, every glance of
trepidation, every concession we make from our lives to
acknowledge its threat – until it rises brazenly to attack us
with our own instruments.

Stoop to conquer Evil and you will only join it in its mud.
Against Evil, you must march on the clouds, never looking down,
climbing ever higher, until you reach a brilliant, blinding
light -- a light that leaves no crevice for darkness to hide.

Against that light, Evil melts in surrender, having fulfilled
its purpose of being. For, in the beginning, darkness was made
to squeeze out the inner light of the human soul. A light that
knows no bounds.

Brought to you by http://www.chabadonline.com/magazine

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“The drink that comforteth the brain and heart and helpeth
digestion.”
Bacon
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5 Coffee Roasters: How to increase your bean sales and your
revenues.
By Alex Fisenko

Some time ago I ordered a "cappuccino" in the coffee bar
of a large book chain store. As I watched with fascination how
the "barista" proceeded to mess up my drink by doing everything
wrong, I noticed an expensive whole bean display, featuring over
a dozen exotic coffees from around the world. Surely the roaster
must have invested a lot of money and time to produce those
beans, which he now so proudly displayed.
Unfortunately, my cappuccino, made with the $8.50 a
pound espresso bean and the $9000 espresso machine, was reduced
to an overheated, thin, bitter brownish milk with no resemblance
in taste to a "real" cappuccino. I doubt that many customers
would like to repeat such an unpleasant experience.
It is an unfortunate fact that most of the shops,
from small "Ma & Pa" bake shops that serve espresso, to large
bake/bagel franchises, and even many so called "Specialty Coffee
Shops" and Food Management Companies, have very limited
understanding on how to maximize their espresso potential to
achieve greater revenues and customers satisfaction. What is the
use of choosing and buying high grade coffee beans, taking great
care in blending and roasting, only to have all that effort and
quality destroyed at the point of sale by some kid that has no
clue, because neither he or the owner/manager of the business
has been trained on how to implement an effective marketing
strategy to attract new espresso customers, and how to prepare
drinks properly for better taste and speed of operation?
This results in lower revenues for the retailer,
less repeat sales, and may have an adverse effect on the
perceived image of the coffee supplier, for if the customer
doesn't like her "latte", she tends to blame the coffee and not
the "barista". That is why customers ask: "What coffee are you
using", when they like or dislike their espresso drink a lot.
By the way, a successful coffee shop may use 100
pounds and up per week of beans through their espresso grinder.
I consistently used in my coffee bars from 125-250 pounds per
week per location, and many of my direct or indirect descendants
use even more!
The growth of the Specialty Coffee Industry presents
tremendous opportunities - and challenges - to the traditional
coffee roasters.
While in the past all you had to do was to provide your
accounts with one or two blends and a coffee brewer, today, in
order to remain competitive and grow, your customers are
demanding products and services which your company may not be
fully prepared to deliver.
One of these services is a customer focused
effective espresso program. The "espresso opportunities" of the
future won't be in delivering a couple of pounds of espresso to
a traditional table cloth restaurant that happens to serve a few
cups of espresso. Your opportunity for growth will be in
developing high volume espresso accounts found in coffee bars,
franchised chains, supermarket food courts, espresso drive-
thrus, Food Management Companies servicing universities,
hospitals, business parks and airports, as well as hundreds of
bookstore chains like Barnes & Noble and Books a Million that
are setting up coffee bars all over the country.
Such accounts will be seeking coffee suppliers that
are able to deliver "effective and proven results" that have a
positive impact on their bottom lines, instead of just products
and equipment.
I believe that one of the best ways to grow a
company in this highly competitive environment is by positioning
it to be perceived as "espresso by the cup retail coffee
experts" in their area of operations.
I helped to develop such a position for one of the
largest West Coast Coffee Roasters. Now this company is one of
the most successful “espresso solution providers" in the
country. Having been "on the other side" of the counter as owner
and operator of my own sixteen coffee bars, I am very familiar
with the everyday opportunities and challenges of this business.
I could be extremely beneficial to the your Coffee Company
showing your major accounts on how to setup and implement
effective espresso concepts - and for you to sell more beans to
more satisfied accounts!
The espresso business is exploding all over the
country. The coffee companies that will thrive and grow in this
area will be the ones that are most able to help their customers
to succeed by providing them with effective strategies to
attract customers and fend off their competition. You will need
experienced and dedicated people to implement those programs.

To learn more contact Alex Fisenko at: alex@espressobusiness.com
or visit www.espressobusiness.com


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Black as the devil, Hot as hell, Pure as an angel,
Sweet as love.
Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Perigord
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6 Cappuccino Cooler

1 1/2 cups cold coffee
1 1/2 cups chocolate ice cream
1/4 cup HERSHEY Syrup
Crushed ice
Whipped cream
Ground Cinnamon (optional)

Combine coffee, ice cream and syrup in blender container. Cover;
blend until smooth. Serve immediately over crushed ice. Garnish
with whipped cream and cinnamon, if desired.

Makes about 4 servings

http://204.148.156.137/fbnr_web/index.html

Variation
Substitute vanilla ice cream for chocolate; increase syrup to
1/3 cup.


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"Coffee falls into the stomach ... ideas begin to move, things
remembered arrive at full gallop ... the shafts of wit start up
like sharp-shooters, similies arise, the paper is covered with
ink” Honore de Balzac
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7. Torani Announces New Caramel Sauce

Torani announces new Torani Caramel Sauce, the latest in its
successful line of premium sauces, which includes Chocolate and
White Chocolate Mocha sauces. The buttery-smooth, sweet taste of
caramel is in high demand with café customers and Torani answers
the craving with a rich, decadent Caramel sauce. The combination
of pure cane sugar, real butter and heavy cream creates a
delicious caramel sauce that enhances lattes, mochas, ciders and
desserts.

New Torani Caramel sauce is carefully formulated to blend
smoothly and quickly into hot, cold and frozen beverages. Torani
Caramel is made from only the very finest ingredients, ensuring
a finely-balanced flavor that is always consistent in taste and
texture.

Torani Caramel sauce comes in a 5 lb. 13 oz. recyclable plastic,
decanter-style container that's designed for easy handling and
storage. Torani Caramel sauce containers accept pumps for easy,
pre-measured dispensing.

To support the introduction of its new Caramel sauce, Torani is
highlighting a new, profitable drink concept called a
"Caramella." The Caramella is a latte made exclusively with
Torani Caramel sauce. A Torani Caramella calls simply for one
ounce of Torani Caramel sauce, 8 ounces of steamed milk and 1 or
2 shots of espresso. Variations on the Caramella theme are
created by adding Torani syrups to the basic recipe, for an
almost endless supply of original Caramella drink ideas, such as
Caramella Nut (add Torani Orgeat), Caramella de France (add
Torani French Vanilla) and Holiday Spice Caramella (add new
Torani Ginger Spice).

Torani provides complete merchandising support for the new Caramella drink
concept.

Torani is the leading brand in specialty syrups and beverage
creativity. Torani, the most recognized consumer brand, stands
for premium ingredients, inventive marketing and continual
innovation in the category.

For more information about new Torani Caramel sauce, or other
Torani products, contact Laura Morse, R. Torre & Co., 233 East
Harris Avenue, So. San Francisco, 94080.
Tel: 800-775-1925. Fax: 650-875-1600. Or visit our web site at
www.torani.com.


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“Coffee, which makes the politicians wise,
And see through all things with his half-shut eyes.”
Alexander Pope
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8. Wiener Halva

Ingredients:
200g shelled almonds
250ml very strong coffee (see note)
20g dark chocolate (> 70% cocoa)
400-450g sugar

Additional flavouring:
(dried) figs (my fave!)
cinnamon stick
strips of orange peel

Takes approx. 2 hours of soaking, 30-ish minutes cooking & a
good pinch of patience to prepare & a serious 3 hour workout to
lose the weight gain...

Almond halva is so dead cheap & simple to make, I often have
some in the house & everyone loves it. I keep varying with
flavours, 'cuz almost anything seems to work. This started out
as another simple almond halva, then took a creative turn &
ended up as "Wiener halva"...

For this (& various other recipes that use coffee for
flavouring) you will need *very strong* coffee. Simplest way is
to brew quad strength coffee in a Melitta filter, or in a
cafetière. You can keep this brew in the fridge for some time &
it also makes a decentish instant coffee.

For the almonds, you can just use plain unpeeled nuts, 'cause
we're not after a nice cream coloured halva & the bitterish
taste of the skin actually blends in quite well.

Ok, back to the recipe. We start this by grating the chocolate &
chopping the almonds, to speed up soaking a bit. Just toss the
chopped nuts in a decent sized saucepan & add the grated
chocolate & top it up with the coffee - the nuts should be fully
submerged. Add the cinnamon stick now, if you want to use that.
Cover, put aside & let it soak for about two hours, or until the
almonds are fairly soft.
Note - if you use fresh brewed coffee, let it cool a bit before
adding, eg. by stirring in the chocolate & letting it melt.

If the almonds are soft enough, we're ready to turn this into a
smooth paste. My weapon of choice is a handheld blender, but a
standard blender, liquidizer, or even a mortar will do quite
well - whichever is your fave.
If you're using figs &/or orange peel for flavouring - put those
in before making the purée. 'Course, do take out the cinnamon
stick...

When you have a nice smooth paste, put it back in the saucepan
to reduce it. Keep it on a low-medium heat & keep stirring. When
it starts getting dry & firm, take from the heat & stir in the
sugar. You should be using about the same volume of sugar as the
paste. (Yes, I know what it looks like - tell me if it tastes
the same!)

Put this mixture back on the stove. It will appear rather moist
& needs another round of reducing. Again, keep on a low-medium
heat & stir continuously to prevent it from sticking to the
bottom. This may take a while, but at the end it will become a
rather firm & sticky "dough".
Note - if you've let it reduce too far, you'll end up with
crumbly stuff that tends to fall apart. Simply add a few
tablespoons of hot water & stir to make it a smooth mass again.

At this point, take it out of the pan & spread it out on a
cookie sheet - it should be rather easy to handle & knead into
shape at this point. Use your hands & a wetted palette knife to
shape the mass into a large diamond of about a cm thickness. Let
it settle for a few minutes, then divide it into smaller
diamonds. Decorate each with eg. a halved peeled almond, a strip
of orange peel, or whatever you fancy. Have fun!

Cheers!

HV


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Let no man grumble when his friends fall off,
As they will do like leaves at the first breeze;
When your affairs come round, one way or t'other,
Go to the coffee-house, & take another.
Byron
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9. A National Call To Join In Prayer And Action For Our Future

Dear Friend,

Americans, and indeed all citizens of the world, woke up to a
new reality on September 11th. Three of our greatest symbols of
freedom, security, and a stable economy came crashing down,
killing thousands, because of the extreme and violent ideals of
terrorists.

In response to these terrible events, 90% of all Americans
report that they have engaged in some form of prayer.* Now that
the American government is striking back and expecting more
terrorist events in reprisal, our prayers for a speedy peace and
the restoration of wisdom, harmony and prosperity are more
important than ever.

In 1861, President Abraham Lincoln united Americans in a Day of
Prayer and Fasting in face of the civil war raging through the
land. They recognized then, as we do now, that our ultimate
fate is not in our hands and that our success requires Heavenly
guidance and blessing.

We are asking Americans and our friends around the world to
unite in the daily recitation of the following prayer. This
prayer incorporates a commitment to good deeds and self-
improvement that will build a better world and increase our
merits to have our prayers answered.

Say the following prayer once a day and start putting its
message into practice through doing kind deeds, using kind
words, forgiving more easily, spending quality time with those
close to you, visiting the sick, and helping your neighbor.

Dear God, Master of the World, Creator, Sustainer and Supervisor
of all Life,

Please extend your compassion, mercy and abundant kindness to us
at this time of crisis and uncertainty. Please grant us the
clarity to build a world of peace, safety, and security. Give us
the wisdom to improve ourselves to fulfill Your will and our
mission in life.

We approach you with a humbled spirit and the pledge to lead
better lives. We commit to act towards each other with honesty
and integrity. We commit to guard our tongues from speaking
evil, slander and gossip. We will make efforts to promote
values and morals. We regret our mistakes and will work to
correct our misdeeds.

In the merit of our prayers and commitment to improve ourselves,
please bless us with peace, harmony, good health and prosperity.
May we see the triumph of justice speedily in our days. Amen.

If 50 bad people could shake up our world so dramatically for
the bad, imagine what hundreds of thousands, indeed millions of
Americans could do for the good. Join us in rebuilding America.
With your participation and Heavenly guidance, we can do it.

Sincerely,

Mimi Baron Jankovits
Mimi@prayeraction.com
www.prayeraction.com


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“The powers of a man's mind are directly proportioned to the
quantity of coffee he drinks.”
Sir James Mackintosh
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10. The Quest for Espresso

Robert’s note: The following was originally posted in the
newsgroup, alt.coffee, and is published here with the permission
of the author. It was this post that prompted the article,
ESPRESSO AMERICAN STYLE, in Issue #50.

I've talked to lots of roasters who specialize in espresso
blends, and I've sampled lots of their blends. And when you
really press people, some will admit that when they roasted to
produce the crema and body that characterize a true espresso
they got complaints from customers. They will say something
like, "We were getting too many complaints from people who said,
'This coffee is just too strong,' so we went for a lighter
blend."

After a while, I think many roasters give in to their customers'
ignorance and start producing an "American-style" espresso--a
coffee more like what people are used to drinking here: weak,
watery (fill that little cup to the brim!), and bitter. Of
course it's hard to judge a cafe or restaurant's blend when the
coffee is being made by a 16-year-old kid who doesn't know the
difference between a tamper and a lug wrench. But face it,
whether you're talking beans or preparation, the espresso
culture in this country is clueless, and it's never going to
change if roasters don't hold the line.

I'd really like to believe that if somebody opened a cafe, opted
for a real Italian-style blend, and went for god shots every
time, whether serving up a straight espresso or a milk drink,
the public would notice the difference and flock to their cafe.
But I've pretty much come to the conclusion that it just doesn't
matter, because I see cafes that serve dreck doing great. And
let's not get started on espresso at Starbucks. . . .

Excerpts from my response follow:

A "heart thumping jolt" is not my personal goal in an espresso.
Using my ECM Giotto and Cafe d'Arte's Parioli blend, I can
produce a 3/4 to 1 ounce, 30-second ristretto with a beautiful
reddish-brown crema and wonderful texture that is smooth and
delicious but doesn't set my heart a thumping. What does set my
heart a thumping is the watery, bitter espressos I am served in
cafes and restaurants wherever I've tried espressos in this
country over the past 20 years.

I've heard lots of roasters claim that American blends are
better than those served in Italy, but this has not been my
experience. For my observations on espresso in Italy, see my
article in the June '01 Coffee Almanac issue of Fresh Cup
(www.freshcup.com). That said, have things improved in this
country? Absolutely. But I think the improvement has been
concentrated more in brewed coffee than in espresso drinks.

Never, in 20 years of sampling espressos wherever I go in this
country, have I been served an espresso that even approximates
what I can make with my home equipment.

A couple of years ago I asked several prominent American
espresso experts a simple question: "What are the chances of an
American walking into a cafe or restaurant, ordering an
espresso, and getting the real thing?"

Joseph John described at length the frustration that led him to
develop his Malabar Gold blend. He said, "I travel all over the
United States, and every time I go and visit as many espresso
bars as I can and order straight espressos. And I've basically
concluded that the American practitioner, the American public,
doesn't know what an espresso is."

Don Holly, then administrative director of the Specialty Coffee
Association of America, had this to say: "The chances are zero,
less than one percent. The knowledge that's required to properly
prepare an espresso is missing from the American cafe culture."

David Schomer put it this way: "Outside of certain districts in
Seattle, San Francisco, Portland, Los Angeles, or New York, the
chances of getting a decent espresso are zero. It's absolutely
not possible."

Perhaps I did put too much emphasis on the roasters in my
original post. Goodness knows that there are scores of ways to
screw up an espresso, and there are plenty of cafes that produce
bad espressos with good beans.

In San Francisco's North Beach, I used to enjoy the coffee at
the Trieste, but the stuff they're serving now is undrinkable.
Cafe Greco, which uses Illy beans, used to serve up a decent
cup. But it, too, has gone down hill (I'm not sure whether to
blame the decline on their preparation or on Illy). I don't know
of a single cafe in the Bay Area that serves up a decent
espresso. This isn't to say such a café doesn't exist. But I
haven't found it.

When I talk to roasters, they tell me how they go out and train
a new cafe owner in every aspect of espresso production. They go
back a couple of months later, and are dismayed to find some kid
without a clue making the espresso.

I gather Starbucks is introducing lots of fully automatic
machines, which may help take the human element out of the
process and improve things. My most recent experience ordering a
"short" espresso at a Starbucks: The girl threw some coffee in a
double basket, didn't even make a motion toward tamping, drew
two long 12-second shots into transfer pitchers, poured half of
one into a cup and handed it to me.

--Richard


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"It is the folly of too many to mistake the echo of a London
coffee-house for the voice of the kingdom.
Jonathan Swift
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11. Links to My Friends

Visit the links page on our website to get the latest links to
both coffee related and unrelated sites of interest. Check it
out. You might find some old friends and make some new ones.
http://www.badgett.net


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“All animals, except man, know that the principal business of
life is to enjoy it.” Samuel Butler
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12. Feedback

Tell me what you think. What do you want more of..less of...what
would you change, add, or delete? mailto:feedback@badgett.net

Please direct all inquiries, comments, article submissions and
suggestions to: Robert Badgett mailto:robert@badgett.net

ISSN: 1534-4614 - Library of Congress, Washington D.C., USA

This journal was made from 100% post-consumer, recycled, non-polluting, and
non-trashcan filling electrons.

(c) Copyright 2001 Robert L. Badgett. All Rights Reserved.



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